PIERCING DICTIONARY
A
ANODIZATION (anodic oxidation) is a process in which the natural oxide layer on metal objects is thickened electrochemically. In the piercing industry, anodization is used for coloring titanium jewelry. The resulting color depends on the thickness of the oxide layer, which is determined by voltage. No pigments are added; the color is visible due to the interaction of light reflected from the surface of the oxide layer with the light passing through it and reflecting off the metal’s surface beneath it. The most common colors on titanium are purple, green, blue, and yellow, along with their shades. Black, gold, and rose gold colors are achieved through Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) coating.
ABSCESS is localized purulent inflammation that can develop in subcutaneous tissue, as well as in deep tissues and organs. An abscess in subcutaneous tissue manifests with local signs of inflammation: redness, swelling, warmth, and pain. If you notice a large, hard swelling near the piercing but not directly on it, be sure to seek an examination at a piercing studio or with a general practitioner. Abscesses usually do not have purulent discharge because the infection is located deep under the skin. Treatment involves drainage and antibiotics.
AUTOCLAVE is a high-pressure steam sterilizer used in medical facilities to sterilize instruments and in piercing studios to sterilize piercing equipment and jewelry. Sterilization with steam occurs under a pressure of 2 bar at a temperature of 134°C for a duration of 30 minutes. More information can be found under ‘sterilization.’ In tattoo and piercing studios, autoclaves should be used, not dry sterilizers.
B
BEZEL SET is the term used for the method of creating piercing attachments with zirconia, where the zirconia is set into a metal base that surrounds it on all sides like a cup. You can find more information about types of jewelry on the link.
C
CURATED EAR is a piercing project for adorning the ear, done in collaboration with a piercer who suggests positions and jewelry based on the individual’s anatomy and preferences. Whether you already have ten piercings on your ear or none at all, it’s possible to arrange consultations with a piercer and, together with them, determine which jewelry would suit you best, what can or cannot be pierced on your anatomy, the piercing ‘schedule’ (how long to wait between individual piercings), and establish the financial structure of the entire project.
The piercer can assist you in finding unique designs of branded jewelry, such as Anatometal, Industrial Strength, Shanga, and more.
D
DERMAL ANCHOR – see under ‘microdermal’
DISINFECTION can be defined as the process of removing vegetative forms of microorganisms, but not necessarily bacterial spores. Disinfection is a less precise procedure than sterilization. Disinfection uses disinfectants (chemical substances) that are weakly selectively toxic but have germicidal properties.
Initial piercing jewelry, as well as all equipment used during the piercing process, must be sterile, not just disinfected, in order to effectively prevent the transmission of any microorganisms into a fresh wound. Please note that “sterilizing” baby bottles by boiling them in a pot of water is not the same as autoclave sterilization of items implanted in the human body. Jewelry boiled in boiling water or soaked in alcohol for three hours is not sterile! For jewelry change in fully healed piercings, the jewelry doesn’t have to be sterile but it must be disinfected.
Disinfected is clean, BUT clean is not sterile.
E
EPITHELIALIZATION is the process during which cells on the surface of the skin or mucous membrane divide more rapidly to cover a wound or damage. In the case of piercings, epithelialization should occur within the piercing channel, beneath the surface of the skin. The process of epithelialization (healing) will take longer for long (e.g., surface piercings) or wide (e.g., earlobe scalpel piercings) piercing channels.
The process of epithelialization is not visible from the outside, so it’s important to follow piercing aftercare instructions and not change the jewelry before a certain part of the healing period has passed to avoid damaging the piercing channel.
EXTERNALLY THREADED refers to jewelry with an external thread, meaning the thread is on the base (labret, barbell, etc.) while the end has a small hole. You can find more about types of jewelry and threads at the link.
H
HEALING PERIOD is the time during which a piercing requires a bit more attention, and you shouldn’t remove the jewelry because it’s in the process of epithelialization of the channel. For example, if a helix piercing takes 6 months to heal, it doesn’t mean that you need to “keep it under a glass bell” for half a year, and after that, you can comfortably sleep on it every night. Even after the healing period ends, the jewelry is still a foreign object in your body, and problems can occur regardless of the age of the piercing.
HYPERTROPHIC TISSUE – see under ‘scar’
I
IMPLANTATION MATERIAL is the term for materials that, due to their composition, purity, durability, and other characteristics, are suitable for long-term implantation in the human body without the possibility of allergic reactions. In the piercing industry, these materials include titanium grade Ti6AL-4V ELI (ASTM F136) and stainless steel SS316L (ASTM F138, ISO 5832-1 standards). Piercing jewelry is also made from other materials such as gold, bioplast, acrylic, glass, and organic materials used for jewelry for stretched earlobes (wood, bone, horn). However, for initial jewelry that is placed in a fresh piercing, it is necessary to choose implantation materials to reduce the risk of piercing complications and facilitate healing. More information about piercing jewelry materials can be found at the link.
INFECTION is most often the result of touching the area around the piercing (or the jewelry itself) with unwashed hands, applying cosmetics over the piercing, bringing the piercing in contact with pet hair, dust, dirt, etc. You can recognize an infection by increased yellowish or whitish discharge from the piercing channel. For fresh piercings, a mild lymph discharge is possible, which is usually clear and thin and not a cause for concern during the healing period. The discharge that occurs with an infection is thicker, and the entire area around the piercing may be slightly (or severely) swollen. In this case, the jewelry acts as a drain, allowing for channel cleaning. All purulent discharge should be cleaned out of the channel before the jewelry is removed because otherwise, the hole around the infection may close as the pus cannot drain out of the channel. If you notice such changes on your piercing, be sure to seek a check-up at the studio as soon as possible. Do not allow the area of the piercing to swell to the extent that the jewelry starts sinking into the tissue, as this can lead to further, very painful issues.
INFLAMMATION in the context of piercings is accompanied by swelling, redness, and tenderness when touched. It may or may not be accompanied by an infection. If the area around the piercing is very hard, and there is no discharge coming from the channel itself, be sure to seek a check-up to determine whether it is an abscess.
INTERNALLY THREADED is a term used for jewelry with internal threads, meaning the base (labret, barbell, etc.) has a threaded hole, while the attachment has a matching thread. You can find more information about jewelry types and threads at the link.
K
KELOID – see under ‘scar’
L
LYMPH is one of the bodily fluids that is first formed as tissue fluid and then enters the lymphatic vessels through filtration. In the context of piercing, lymph is a mucous fluid (clear or yellowish-white) that sometimes oozes from the piercing channel during the healing period or after an injury to an old piercing. Sometimes people mistake it for pus – the purulent discharge from an infected piercing is usually thicker than lymph and is often accompanied by inflammation/swelling/pain, which is not the case with lymph discharge.
The amount of lymph discharge in fresh piercings depends on the piercing’s location (e.g., for a lip piercing, lymph may appear for up to two months after the piercing), your immune system (individuals with weaker immune systems may have thicker and longer-lasting lymph discharge), and your piercing aftercare.
M
‘MEDICINKA’ is a term for an earring used as initial jewelry when piercing ears with a “piercing gun”. Older ‘medicinka’ models were made of low-quality metal that would oxidize with prolonged wear. Newer models are made of steel and may have a gold coating. ‘Medicinka’ usually refers to simple jewelry that is not intended for long-term wear.
In the context of piercing, there are no ‘medicinkas’; instead, there is classic piercing jewelry designed for long-term use in the body. For some piercing positions, the initial jewelry may need to be a few millimeters longer to facilitate healing. If this extra length doesn’t bother the client (doesn’t snag or irritate the piercing once it’s healed), the jewelry can be worn as long as desired without the need for replacement because it won’t cause allergic reactions or oxidize. Some piercing jewelry, particularly those with gemstones, may be subject to wear and tear since it’s worn without removal during activities like sleeping, showering, swimming in pools or the sea, etc.
MICRODERMAL (dermal anchor) is a ‘semi-implant’ where part of the jewelry is beneath the skin, and part is on the surface. It doesn’t have an ‘entry’ and ‘exit’ like other types of piercings, and it can’t be taken in and out at will. To remove a microdermal, you need to visit a piercing studio. Since it’s a ‘single-point’ piercing, there is no long channel that needs to epithelialize, so it usually heals relatively easily and without significant issues. The part of the jewelry under the skin has holes through which tissue grows, holding the jewelry in place. Because the jewelry cannot move within the piercing channel, it looks like you’ve had it for years even after just a week – there’s no redness, skin peeling, or lymphatic discharge. It might bleed more during the piercing process than a traditional piercing, but that typically stops within a day or two. Care should be taken to avoid snagging or bumping the microdermal as it can lead to migration or jewelry rejection.
Microdermals can be placed on nearly any part of the body with sufficiently firm skin and no risk of the internal part of the jewelry pushing through to the ‘other side’ (e.g., it’s not done on the earlobe or cartilage, lip, or nostril). We do not recommend doing them on the hands due to the frequent exposure to external influences, dust, dirt, and snagging.
MIGRATION is a process in which piercing jewelry shifts from its initial placement, causing the piercing to heal at an angle. Often, migration is followed by jewelry rejection. Migration occurs due to sleeping on the piercing, playing with the jewelry, or wearing overly large or heavy jewelry. If the piercing heals at an angle, it cannot be corrected other than by removing the jewelry and redoing the piercing once the tissue has had a chance to renew. To avoid jewelry migration, try to minimize sleeping on the piercing, regardless of its age, because migration can start at any time.
P
PIERCING BUMP – see under ‘scar’
PRONG SET is the term for the method of making piercing attachments with zircons where the zircon is set in metal prongs that hold it in place. You can find more information about types of jewelry at the link.
PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) COATING is a special process of vacuum metal coating typically performed at very high temperatures. During the process, the coating material (metal, such as titanium) is vaporized or bombarded with ions. A specific reactive gas (such as nitrogen) is introduced at the same time to form a compound with the metal and create a thin but highly adherent coating. The PVD coating technique offers several characteristic advantages – a very durable coating with high wear resistance, it doesn’t easily tarnish or change color, it provides a glossy and solid finish on metal that looks new even after extended wear. PVD coating is hypoallergenic and safe for use in piercing jewelry and for wearing in the body, even for highly sensitive individuals. In the piercing industry, it is used to achieve colors that are not attainable through anodization, such as gold, black and rose gold.
R
REJECTION OF JEWELRY is the process in which the body starts pushing the piercing jewelry towards the surface of the skin. The skin that holds the jewelry becomes progressively thinner, and if the jewelry is not removed in time, the skin can tear, leaving a significant scar. Rejection can occur due to sleeping on the piercing, playing with the jewelry, wearing inadequate jewelry, and sometimes, without an obvious reason, the body simply doesn’t accept the jewelry, especially with surface piercings located on flat areas of the body or on very thin skin.
Individual anatomy can play a significant role in terms of migration and/or jewelry rejection, especially with navel piercings where attention must be paid to the shape, depth, width, and the prominence of skin folds where the jewelry will hold. It is also important to choose anatomically suitable jewelry and adjust its dimensions to specific anatomy.
RETAINER is jewelry made of bioplast (biocompatible plastic) used for fresh piercings when a person needs to have a medical examination that requires the removal of their metal jewelry (e.g., X-rays, MRI). A retainer keeps the piercing channel open because without jewelry the piercing would start to close. It can also be used to conceal the piercing because it is semi-transparent. It is not recommended for long-term use as bioplast is not a durable material like titanium or steel and deteriorates with prolonged wear.
S
SCAR is an area of connective tissue (fibrosis) that replaces normal skin after an injury. Scar tissue is made of the same protein (collagen) as the tissue it replaces, but it is formed differently. Types of scars:
- Hypertrophic scar – develops within the boundaries of the injury, with a thin layer of reddened skin that rises above the surface. This type of scar is most common in piercings.
- Keloid scar – darker in color and extends beyond the edges of the wound. People with dark skin that has more melanin are more prone to keloids, which can grow to the size of a golf ball.
- Atrophic scar – sunken scar. Sometimes it occurs after microdermal removal.
Piercing jewelry is a foreign object in your skin, and sometimes scar tissue can form around it. The most common occurrence is hypertrophic scar, but the type of scar also depends on your skin type.
A hypertrophic scar appears as a small, fleshy growth and can be skin-colored or reddish. It looks similar to a subcutaneous pimple and may (but not always) be accompanied by an infection (pus discharge). The occurrence of hypertrophic scars is very common in piercings in ear cartilage and the nostril (nostrils also contain cartilage) because cartilage is connective tissue with very limited blood circulation. Since there are no major blood vessels to supply nutrients from the body, sleeping on the piercing leads to the compression of tissue around the jewelry, causing a disruption in circulation in that part of the body, resulting in various problems. In addition to sleeping on the piercing, the most common causes of scar tissue growth around the piercing are constant touching the jewelry, snagging, or a blow.
On oral piercings (such as the tongue, smiley, tongue web, inner side of the lip), scar tissue growth is also possible due to piercing irritation – playing with the jewelry, biting the jewelry, frequent gum chewing, snagging, or accidental jewelry biting can cause tissue thickening around the piercing.
If scar tissue growth is not prevented in time, it can continue to grow until it covers the entire piercing. Therefore, it is important to seek a professional evaluation as soon as you notice such changes.
STERILIZATION is a process that eliminates all forms and types of microorganisms, including bacterial spores. ‘Sterile’ means free from any category of life.
Sterilization takes place in an autoclave (see the beginning of the list) under a pressure of 2 bars at a temperature of 134°C for a period of 30 minutes. All piercing equipment that is sterilized in the autoclave undergoes manual cleaning using disinfectants and additional deep cleaning in an ultrasonic bath. After drying, the equipment is packaged in special semi-permeable sterilization pouches that have a control indicator to determine the success of sterilization. The indicator is originally pink but changes color to dark brown after successful sterilization.
In addition to daily sterilization control using the indicators on the pouches, the correctness of the autoclave is checked by sterilizing spores provided by the Institute of Public Health. After sterilization, the spores are sent to the Institute’s laboratory for analysis, based on which a certificate of successful sterilization and the correctness of the autoclave is issued. Everything that enters a wound called a piercing must be sterile, as well as all additional equipment used during piercing, to prevent infections, contamination, etc.
SURFACE PIERCING is located on the surface of the skin and can be placed on almost any part of the body. The most common surface positions are surface tragus (sideburn), horizontal eyebrow, vertical bridge (vertically between the eyebrows), antieyebrow (high on the cheek, below the eye), nape (back of the neck), and sternum (between the breasts). We do not recommend it in positions where the skin is very thin or moves a lot, such as the collarbone, lower back, wrists, and similar areas.
The jewelry for surface piercings is called a surface bar, and it has a cubed C shaped design. This design is the only suitable one for this type of piercing because the bar is evenly inserted under the skin, ensuring it’s covered with enough tissue along its entire length, and the beads (attachments) are in contact with the skin surface at a 90-degree angle, which minimizes pressure on the tissue. Due to its extreme sensitivity, susceptibility to migration and rejection, and long healing period, surface piercing has been almost entirely replaced by microdermals, i.e., dermal anchors.
T
TAPER is a steel tube that is narrow at one end and wide at the other. The wider end corresponds to the thickness of the jewelry being inserted. It is used for gradually stretching earlobes, reinserting piercing jewelry in case you haven’t worn it for a long time and the piercing channel has constricted, and for easier insertion of jewelry during the actual piercing.
THREADLESS is a term for jewelry without threads, which means the base has a hole (labret, barbell, etc.) and the attachment has a thin ‘pin’ that bends at a certain angle during insertion. You can find more information about types of jewelry and threading in the provided link.